Every allotment and back garden produces a steady stream of prunings, dead stems, fallen leaves and hollow canes. Most of it ends up on the bonfire or in the green bin, but a great deal of that "waste" is exactly the sort of material solitary bees, beetles, ladybirds and lacewings are looking for. A bug hotel is simply a tidy way of stacking those leftovers so insects can tuck themselves away from the weather and from predators.
The reward is not just a warm feeling about wildlife. Solitary bees pollinate your beans, apples and courgettes far more efficiently than honeybees in many cases, and predatory beetles and centipedes quietly munch their way through slug eggs and aphids. Build it well and you get a garden that works a little harder for you.
You do not need to buy anything. The whole point is to use what the plot already gives you. Gather together:
Avoid anything treated with wood preserver, and never use plastic sheeting. Insects need to breathe, and a sealed box quickly becomes a damp, mouldy trap.
Site matters more than design. Pick a quiet corner that gets a bit of morning sun but stays shaded and sheltered from the worst of the wind and rain. South or east-facing is ideal, and raising the whole thing on bricks or a pallet keeps the base dry.
Start with the frame. A wooden pallet turned on its side gives you instant shelves, or you can stack bricks in a rough cube and fill the gaps. If you are using a crate, lay it on its back so the open side faces out.
Now fill each compartment with a different material. This is the part that matters most, because different insects want different things:
Fill every gap. Empty space in a bug hotel is wasted space, and a tightly packed structure holds its warmth and humidity far better.
Finish by fixing a small roof — a sheet of slate, a piece of old boarding or even a sheet of corrugated plastic — overhanging the front by a few centimetres. Keeping the rain out is the single most important thing you can do.
A bug hotel that soaks through is worse than no hotel at all. Damp canes grow mould, and mould kills overwintering larvae. So check the position after the first heavy rain and adjust the roof if water is getting in.
Keep the front clear of ivy and long grass so insects have a clean flight path, and do not site it right next to a bird feeder or a busy path. A quiet spot against a shed wall or behind a hedge is perfect.
Resist the urge to tidy it. Leave the contents alone year after year. Solitary bees often return to the same holes, and beetles will overwinter deep in the leaf litter. If a compartment starts to crumble, top it up with fresh material in early spring rather than pulling the whole thing apart.
Give it a season and you should see plenty of activity. Mason bees and leafcutter bees will plug the drilled holes with mud or neat circles of leaf. Look for the tell-tale capped ends. Lacewings and ladybirds will shelter in the leaf litter over winter, emerging in spring to hunt aphids on your roses and broad beans.
Hoverflies, earwigs, centipedes and ground beetles all make use of the lower, damper layers. You may even get a queen bumblebee investigating a dry cavity in early spring, looking for somewhere to start a nest.
Building one takes an afternoon and costs nothing but the effort of gathering what you were going to throw away. A few months later, it will be humming with life — and quietly getting on with the job of pollinating your crops and keeping the pests down.